The Tokyo Days 25 & 26
It's hard to write when you're showing Japan to anyone, when you're alone you have time for yourself, to think and to act freely, when you're with somebody you need to put up a bit more effort to not stare at your phone every minute, but here goes a few of the stories from the past few days
May 14 :
As we wake up now in a tiny hotel, I've setup a simple plan that crosses Tokyo North to South, but we're met with a few unfavourable conditions. The sky is grey as London, so that probably makes the first impression of Tokyo for M. a bit less interesting, lets' call him M from this point on, as it's easier to refer to what happens next, without going straight to first name basis.
It will rain later on, but we're still on a path to do it, no need for fancy umbrellas, because as Google says, it will be short-lived.
We head towards Sensou-Ji Temple at Asakusa, but one interchange makes us consider, that Kanda Festival is happening today, and we should have a peak at the temple before it all starts. We see the streets already half crowded in people dressed for the festival. As we arrive to the bigger streets we see some small shrines have their mikoshi's, the portable temples at the ready to enter the main shrine of Kanda.
They all grab it by 4 corners, and scream Ya-isho, as they move it one step at a time, some people have drums and other wooden sticks to keep the rhytm, the crowd gets bigger as we approach the main shrine.
At the main shrine, the festivities have started, where the monk is greeting some of the portable shrines already, and making sure they park correctly their portable shrine, the food stalls are buzzing, and lots of masks are being sold.
I take a few pictures, and M enjoys the traditions of every single dress, to every ritualistic thing there is, I also manage a chance to get the special double paged Goshuin, altough it's paper.
We exit through the back entrance, and head to the next station that will lead us towards Sensou-Ji Shrine. It won't be quiet, as the time is already 11 or so, but that's fine. We arrive to the usual touristy crowds, lots of shops selling the knick-knacks which he isnt interested in and we go through the main shrines, I try my best at explaining the Shinto religion, and the relationship with Buddhism. As every japanese would say, you are born a Shinto, you marry Christian and you die a Buddhist. But all their life, you would say, I am not religious. It's something that I wish more people around the world would come to enjoy, it's not religion, it's tradition.
We exit towards the river and visit a shrine of horse radish, that is much more sincere in it's practice, small room, a few people do come and pray with their beads, and still a few horse radishes being sanctified. Next up is Skytree, short walk alongside the river and the main buildings such as Asahi. As I plan to head down to Ryuogoku area where Edo-Tokyo museum is, I open up the maps and see it's closed, I check the website and unfortunately it is, being renovated until next year or possibly more.
We have to adapt, I say, let's go to Tokyo National Museum instead, so we do, passing by Ueno Park and some of it's pretty shrines, the whole Zoo section and other museums, and a local flea/food market next to the museum.
The building looks 40's European, rather than anything Japanase, a bit communist in my view, and the exhibits go mostly through history via Art, the usual early settlers tools, some vases, and goes on and on until the modern era, with better statues depicting Buddha, the evolution towards a Japanese way of seeing buddha versus a more hindu one.
The evolution of writing, influence of china, then the european art... Some samurai helmets, swords and armour is displayed as well. A lot to read and understand. We don't rush, but it's time for a snack, pass by an empty temple as we head out and towards the train Station.
Another Starbucks, as it's easier for M to get a cappuccino, and plan the way ahead to Shibuya, and the rain catches us a bit unpreparedly, so as any reasonable person, we go to the nearest shop, any shop, buy 2 umbrellas for 400 yen.
Too early for dinner, we decide to go for an arcade, with billiards next to us it's a good half an hour lost, to a simple billiards game. We have teppanyaki style burger for dinner, and go through a bit more of Shibuya spotting a sake place, that allows to taste all the varieties for a confortable price.
As energy runs out, we head back to hotel and prepare for day 2 of Tokyo.
May 15 :
The second day goes smoothly as no big activities were planned, just more of a sightseeing and small dishes here and there...
Waking up, very late morning, a ride towards the Tsukiji Market, but as it's late, most of the market is full. We still manage to snatch up some good sushi and sashimi. See another shrine and the out of place buddhist temple close by. Walking towards Ginza, M decides he needs some socks and some other Uniqlo things, after that we head towards the top of Ginza Six to observe more of surroundings. We have some ramen, in a semi popular place.
Easy stroll towards Tokyo Tower, the Zogo-Ji temple, and as we're not far away again from Shibuya, we decide to try our luck at the batting cages. Fun experience for a first timer, the time goes quickly and we decide to make our way to Shinjuku, the buzz of Kabukicho Tower and surrounding Golden Gai and omoide yukocho, for dinner we go to simple skewers here and there, and a few beers.
Getting back to hotel was easy, and we pack up for an early train to Kyoto.